![]() Herr Brain on Open Source And Giving Back.In Praise Of RPN (with Python Or C) 36 Comments Posted in how-to, Tool Hacks Tagged adhesive, repair, screws, soldering iron, threadlocker Post navigation If you’re not too squeamish, also check out our thoughts on soldering iron cauterization. This soldering iron hack isn’t the first we’ve featured on Hackaday – check out this method on removing enamel from magnet wire. While high-temperature threadlocker derivatives exist, typical Loctite-branded threadlocker (and similar products) would not appear to be able to stand the heat of a typical soldering iron. Unlike most adhesives, which melt under high temperature (think glue sticks), thermoset materials tend to initially harden with the application of heat, before turning brittle and breaking. The chemistry behind thermoset adhesives makes for some great bedtime reading, however the main takeaway is that threadlock fluid, while somewhat resistant to heat, will eventually become brittle enough for the screw to come loose. The whole process takes just a couple of minutes, and potentially saves the repairer from destroying a screw. After heating, working the screw back and forth breaks the threadlocker, thus freeing the screw. By applying a significant amount of heat to the screw head, the adhesive starts to give. Instead of drilling out the offending screw, reaches for his soldering iron. Available in a variety of strengths, thread-locking fluid is great at keeping screws where they need to be, but too much (or the wrong kind) can seize a screw permanently. In the video, is faced with a titanium Torx screw that refuses to come loose due to threadlocker, an adhesive that is applied to screws and other fasteners to prevent them coming loose. This tool hack is pretty simple, but all the great ones tend to be straightforward. But wait! offers a potential solution using nothing but a soldering iron. Frustration mounting, drilling that sucker out is starting to seem pretty tempting. It’s stuck tight with thread-locking fluid, and using more torque threatens to strip the head. To summarise, 2 mm is probably just fine, while 1.6 mm seems to be an optimal general purpose tip size for beginner electronics DIYers.We’ve all been there – that last stubborn screw, the one thing between you and some real progress on a repair or restoration. ![]() Note that Ersa sells its Pico and Nano stations with a 1.6 mm chisel tip. With 2.4 mm, you will be touching the neighbouring pads. Interestingly, for a popular FX-888D station Hakko doesn't offer a 2 mm chisel tip in the standard version (although there is one in DL version). As the first choice, I would go with a 1.6.2 mm tip width. What tips you should buy depends on what diameter your pads are and whether or not you are willing to have (and switch between) multiple tips. On the other hand, there are also PCBs with 1.27 mm pitch, where the pad diameter is about 1.1 mm. The GY-213V-SI7021 temp/humidity sensors have about 2 mm pad diameter. The Arduino mini pro clone has the pad diameter around 1.4 mm (the pad is almost vanishing there, it's just a thin ring around the hole). My perf boards have the pad diameter of 2 mm. So we need to know the dimensions of what you are likely to solder. It will store as much heat as possible while also transferring it as quickly as possible to the components. Dave of EEVblog seems to be using the tip roughly the same size as the pad.įrom the general physics logic, I would recommend having as wide tip as possible, while not touching the neighbouring components. This guy says it should be 60 % of the pad size. Hakko recommends the tip to be the same size as the pad.
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